30 Steps to Foolproof Baked Ziti with Cottage Cheese

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F) and lightly grease a 23x33 cm (9x13 in) baking dish with a little olive oil or non-stick spray so the pasta doesn't catch on the edges.

Fill a large pot with about 4 litres (4 quarts) of water and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat before adding the pasta, so it cooks evenly without clumping.

Stir in 15 g (1 tbsp) of fine sea salt once the water is boiling; it should taste like seawater, which is what actually seasons the pasta from the inside as it cooks.

Add 450 g (1 lb) of ziti and cook for 1-2 minutes less than the package directions, about 8-9 minutes, so it stays firm since it will finish cooking in the oven.

Scoop out 120 ml (1/2 cup) of the starchy cooking water before draining the ziti in a colander; that reserved water will loosen the sauce later if it feels thick.

In a large saucepan or deep skillet, heat 30 ml (2 tbsp) of olive oil over medium heat until it shimmers, about 1 minute.

Add 150 g (1 medium) finely diced yellow onion and cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it turns translucent and smells sweet rather than sharp.

Stir in 3 cloves of minced garlic and cook for 30-45 seconds, just until fragrant; pull the pan off the heat briefly if it starts to brown, since burnt garlic turns bitter.

Pour in 800 g (28 oz) of crushed tomatoes and stir in 30 g (2 tbsp) of tomato paste, scraping up any browned bits from the base of the pan.

Add 5 g (1 tsp) of dried Italian seasoning, 1 g (1/4 tsp) of red chilli flakes if using, and 5 g (1 tsp) salt with a good grind of black pepper.

Reduce the heat to low and let the sauce simmer gently for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it thickens slightly and no longer tastes raw.

Tip 450 g (16 oz) of cottage cheese into a food processor or blender and pulse for 20-30 seconds until it looks like ricotta rather than lumpy curds; this step is what stops the finished bake from looking grainy.

In a large bowl, combine the blended cottage cheese with 1 large egg, 25 g (1/4 cup) of the Parmesan, and 15 g (1/4 cup) of chopped fresh basil.

Fold 115 g (1 cup) of the shredded mozzarella into the cheese mixture along with a pinch of salt and pepper, mixing just until combined.

Add the drained ziti to the sauce and toss to coat, reserving about 240 ml (1 cup) of sauce to spread over the top later.

If the sauced pasta looks thick or dry, splash in a little of the reserved pasta water, 30 ml (2 tbsp) at a time, until it coats each piece glossily.

Add the cottage cheese mixture to the sauced pasta and fold gently with a spatula, working in wide strokes so streaks of white filling stay visible rather than turning the whole dish pink.

Spoon 60 ml (1/4 cup) of the reserved sauce over the base of the prepared baking dish and spread it into an even layer to stop the pasta sticking.

Spoon half of the pasta and cheese mixture into the dish and spread it into an even layer with the back of a spoon.

Top with the rest of the pasta mixture, smoothing the surface so it bakes evenly.

Pour the rest of the reserved sauce over the pasta, spreading it to the edges so every piece of ziti peeking through gets some coverage.

Scatter the remaining 225 g (2 cups) of mozzarella and 25 g (1/4 cup) of Parmesan evenly over the surface.

Tent a sheet of foil loosely over the dish, shiny side down, making sure it doesn't touch the cheese so it doesn't pull it off when removed.

Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes; the sauce should be bubbling gently around the edges when you peek.

Remove the foil and bake for a further 12-15 minutes, until the cheese is fully melted and the top is turning golden in patches.

The ziti is ready when the sauce is bubbling visibly at the edges and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the centre reads at least 74°C (165°F).

For deeper golden spots, switch the oven to a high broil/grill setting for 2-3 minutes, watching closely so the cheese doesn't scorch.

Let the baked ziti stand for 10 minutes out of the oven; this allows the cheese to set slightly so the portions hold together when served.

Scatter over a little extra chopped basil and a light grating of Parmesan just before serving for a fresh finish.

Cut into 8 portions with a sharp knife and serve warm, straight from the dish, with crusty bread or a simple green salad alongside.